There comes a time in every vehicle's life when certain parts need to be replaced. If you're an owner that drives a modified car, you've chosen to accelerate that process. If the original design of the part in question was poor, you're going to have to come to grips with replacing it with a superior part. One of the parts that get a lot of abuse over time is the clutch. This part is actually an assembly of parts that function as a coupling device, transmitting torque from the engine crank to the transmission input shaft. Most manual transmissions have a clutch assembly that eventually wears out or just plain can't handle the level of torque being applied from the engine. When this happens, the clutch may slip under engine load and the pedal disengagement/engagement point may creep upward. It happens to all of us eventually, so don't feel alone.

When it's time to replace the clutch, be prepared. Not every clutch is for you. You need one that can satisfy your individual needs. You should consider your driving style, your level of engine output, longevity of the clutch assembly, and the "street-ability" of the clutch. Most people make the mistake of choosing a clutch that they don't really need, because a salesman or web site convinced them they had to have it.

When we consider clutches, we think of three fundamental categories. Stock replacement, performance clutches, and racing clutches. If you're looking for a stock replacement clutch, the price will usually be less than a performance one. As expected, the performance of a stock unit won't be on par with an aftermarket one. Stock replacement clutches usually have a long service life (over 50,000 miles) if operated correctly within the rated torque limits it was designed for. Performance clutches tend to be more expensive but offer higher torque ratings. They also have a shorter lifespan in general. So which type is right for you? Well, it really depends on a number of factors. If your vehicle is mildly modified and has a decent clutch from the factory, you might consider a stock replacement. If your stock clutch is marginal right off the showroom floor, consider an aftermarket performance clutch. If you've modified your engine to levels far beyond stock performance, you should consider a performance unit. In extreme cases, a racing clutch is justified.

Since most European car enthusiasts are in the market for performance upgrades, I'll focus the remainder of this article on the performance clutch category. How do you know which aftermarket clutch is right for you? After all, how can one single performance clutch be right for everybody's car? Simply put, it can't be right. That's why we've developed "Stages" of clutches to choose from. We've taken a look at our customer clutch needs, and classified our product selection accordingly. In the end, we offer you Stage I through Stage V clutch kits. Each clutch kit Stage is application specific, catering to the vehicle's needs in addition to the driver's.

Since New Dimensions offers many different clutch Stages and brands, I'll limit the scope of this by selecting one particular model worth highlighting. That model is the SPEC Stage II, which is manufactured by Star Performance Engineering Clutches (SPEC). SPEC is located in Alabama, with all products assembled and tested in the United States. In the last decade, SPEC has built a solid reputation for Domestic & Import performance on the street, on the track, and at the strip. We decided to capture that success and translate it to European cars. The SPEC Stage II clutches are the pinnacle of that effort.

The beauty of a SPEC Stage II is in the practicality. It's a clutch that fulfills your needs in many areas. First off, it's a true performer. It can take the high torque abuse of modified engines over and over. With most applications, you'll never need "more" clutch than a Stage II. It grabs quickly, but without noisy chatter or severe vibrations in the pedal feel (stock flywheel equipped). It's smooth to engage, with little pedal effort required to depress it.

The design of the SPEC Stage II clutch involves a sprung hub center section, with a segmented face Kevlar friction material. This Kevlar fiber composite friction material is a proprietary compound with the trade name Clutchtex. This friction material lasts up to five times longer on a SPEC Stage II when compared to other friction facings and linings. Clutchtex material will not score, abrade, or otherwise damage metal flywheels or pressure plates. The SPEC Stage II is also capable of high temperatures as well; so don't be afraid to be aggressive with it. The Kevlar facing will not crack or break in any way. With a wear rate of up to 1/3 that of sintered bronze facings, you can count on it to last. You get the smooth and quiet engagement you want, ensuring the "street-ability" advantage. Stop and go traffic won't have you questioning your clutch choice.

We also offer a SPEC Hybrid clutch, which is part Stage II and part Stage III. Stage III is usually a multiple puck (winged) design using a Carbon based friction material. One side of the Hybrid clutch is a segmented face Kevlar Stage II, while the other side is a multi-puck Carbon design. Truly the best for a weekend drag strip warrior who doesn't want clutch chatter or harsh engagement on the street. Interested? Call us today for details on the right clutch for you. From mild to wild, we have the solution for your individual clutch and flywheel needs.

We also offer SPEC lightweight aluminum flywheels as an option for those seeking more sensitive throttle response and quick engine rpm "spool-up".

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