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	Go Back to the page you came from HERE Even in stock form, the water-cooled VWs engine runs excessive oil temperatures. It is not uncommon for a Corrado to reach temperatures of 260-280F, even in the normally aspirated condition. There is a point in almost any engine that high temps will start to cause a lost in horsepower. For best performance and engine life, it is important to have oil temperatures in the 200-240F range. An oil cooler kit can help by giving you some thermal reserve in those high stress situations. All our kits include a thermostatic adapter plate to allow the oil to reach operating temperatures quickly and not to undercool the engine which is undesirable as running too hot is. We mount all of our oil coolers using brackets not tieraps in front of the radiator (most efficient). On the VR6 and A3 models we locate the cooler in the fender area using a front grille duct to feed air to it.

Customer Comments

	Installed my New Dimensions oil cooler kit this past weekend. I must say, in only a couple of days, I'm quite pleased with the results. I finally feel comfortable driving in the hot Southern California weather. So far, the highest oil temperature I've seen was 240F. That was in stop and go traffic in about 90F heat without the AC on (since it's not blowing cold anyway). I wasn't too surprised at this since there's not too much airflow when your barely moving. Nonetheless, it hit 240F only for a short time and then immediately went back down to 236-238F. The oil cooler does however make a difference when you're sitting still. When running the engine for the first time after installation, and while my car was up on ramps, I felt both the hoses. One was very hot, while the other was significantly cooler. While driving from on the freeway from LA to San Diego yesterday morning in about 80F heat, the oil temp leveled off at about 224F! I turned on the AC in an attempt to see the results, but the temp stayed at 224F. My AC is not blowing very cold, so I'm not sure if this implies a freon leak which means the compressor wouldn't have to work very hard which explains the lack of AC drag on the engine, or maybe the oil cooler just makes that big of a difference. So far, I've yet to see any fresh oil drops in my parking spots, but I'm keeping an eye out and will probably place some cardboard under the car to make sure one night. Also, I haven't yet re-installed the gravel guard (for leak checking). I guess that once I do, the oil cooler's performance will be slightly less. Coolant temperature oddly remains at around 230F though just slightly more below the 230F mark than before. I'm going to try the high pressure water through the radiator from the engine bay method someone else on the list mentioned. I've had the oil cooler for over a year and didn't install it. I was able to make it through the SoCal summers and keep the Corrado from getting too hot. The final motivating factor was a drive to Vegas in a friend's Acura Legend. We were going 90-100 uphill in mid-day 100+F heat with the AC on, and we drove right by an SLC sitting on the side of the freeway. I thought to myself, I know why he's sitting. I just wanted to re-iterate to the list that having an oil cooler is probably one of the best things you can do for your Corrado (and yourself). If you're like me, you probably watch that oil temp like a hawk when you're out driving in the warm weather. Nervous about how high your temps will reach, and driving in a fashion you believe will keep temps down. Well, ever since I installed my ND oil cooler, I rarely check my oil temp, and when I do.. it's only out of curiousity to see how well my cooler is working. I drive how I want, as hard as I want, whenever I want without even a second thought to engine heat now. I think the highest temp I've seen since I installed it has been 242 degrees, and that was in LA summer weather during city driving. 224 is common for me when I'm highway driving in heat with AC on. Installing that oil cooler has been the best mod done to my Corrado yet. Anyway, I'm not affiliated with New Dimensions and have nothing to gain from this little plug. I just wish I could share with you guys the feeling of freedom/relief my oil cooler has given me. Sounds lame.. (really lame actually) but whatever. :)

Installation Instructions

	ND Products recommends you review the instructions provided with the kit and a workshop manual before you begin your installation. We recommend you change your oil and filter at the same time as you are installing this kit. Please note, these are not the full instructions and should not be used to install your ND oil cooler kit. We supply full detail instructions with every purchase of our kits. These are strictly used as basic reference for buyers of our kits, to make aware of some of the installation procedures before purchasing the kit, if you decide to install it yourself. As always, consult your local mechanic or technician before install. We rate this install: 9 (1= First Time DIY 10=Semi-Professional Technician) Tighten fittings into thermo-adapter plate. Mount thermo-adaptor plate to factory oil cooler by installing threaded tube provided and attaching adapter with new cap provided. Mount oil cooler and assemble hoses onto cooler adaptor plate. Do not use teflon tape or thread sealer, just a light coat of engine oil. Route oil lines towards cooler. Pay attention to lines natural curve, and some adjustment of oil lines ends may be necessary for proper fit. Failure to do so may strip the oil coolers soft aluminum threads.

Hints & Tips

	Here are some usefull tips for your install from some of our Customers The oil cooler (factory) is mounted next to the oil filter unit. The adapter for the auxiliary oil cooler kit mounts off the cooler area not the filter area. So changing the filter is just as easy as stock. We do not unscrew/drain them when we change our oil but if someone wanted to get all the oil out they could. The extra oil is around 1/4 to 1/2 quart. The oil stays in the cooler and lines and does not overfill the crankcase. If anything the extra oil is a plus. As for the exact amount of oil the cooler adds, we recommend to put in ~6 quarts, start the car and get the pressure up, then shut it off and then top it off till it reads correct on the dipstick. The fittings we use do not require teflon tape. If however you do insist, then when using teflon tape you always remove the old stuff before reinstalling the connection. We also use a duct from the front lower grille area to feed cool air to it. It's the same one VW uses to feed the intercooler on the G-60. (Contact BugWorld for that used part). While the G-60 intercooler can be improved the location must be quite good or VW would not have mounted it in that location. Many of our kits are mounted in front of the radiator but on the Corrado and A3 models we changed the mounting location to allow better fitment and easier installation. We have found this combination quite sufficient. For a 93 Corrado: The only things I had to "move" were the A/C lines and change the position of the banjo fitting that the pressure switch sat on. Also I had to relocate my horns by putting them up further towards the front. I still used the factory bracket, I just used only one of the holes in the bracket and hung it at an angle....are you confused yet?!?! The A/C line was just a matter of loosening the fitting just enough so that it could be turned without making the freon come out. It took a short while but we finally made room without it rubbing on the pressure switch. The instuctions call for a 1" cresent wrench, it is very difficult working in the cramped area between the engine and the front with a cresent. I got a 1" open ended wrench and it works much nicer. I can get almost a 1/2 turn instead of the worthless baby turns with the cresent. Plus the hoses are 1" as well so it became a very nice tool instead of the clumbsy cresent. Before starting this job, you may want to purchase and replace the gasket on your original watercooled oil cooler to block adaptor as they are prone to leaks (might as well while you are there). Once you have the original cover off, the watercooler oil cooler slides forward. About 4 hours with help from another C owner.The second set of hands was nice for occational help. It's not difficult work, just time consuming. You need patience. The horns are in the way. I took them out, bent the bracket a bit and put them back, they sit slightly differently. Depending on the type of sending unit for your oil pressure gauge you have, putting the sending unit back in is more than a tight fit. Advise. Tighten the fittings to the adaptor plate as tight as you can, you will not be able to tighten them once on the car and they are prone to leaking. Mine did and I had to take the plate off again and retighten them. It was a bitch, but easier the second time around. Have as many wrenches as possible, you will need them for working in the tight confines of the little engine bay. Access to the stock-watercooler-oil-cooler is TIGHT. However, after having done an engine mount change on the G60, I knew how to gain plenty of space: Just remove the front subframe while supporting the engine with a jack. Actually, I just loosened the top engine mount nut, and then the bolts on the driver's side of the subframe (3 bolts) and it swings out of the way. It's trivial, takes 2 minutes, and probably saves you A LOT of aggrevation. BUT YOU MUST SUPPORT THE ENGINE with a jack before you do this! Instead of bending or relocating the bracket for the horns, I just mounted the horns on the *other* side of the bracket. Fits perfectly. I used a Dremmel tool to open up the front grill to allow better air flow instead of drilling holes in the wheel well plastic. I figured I'd get better flow with the front of the car. If I get real ambitious, I'll try fitting the G60 Intercooler duct there. Go Back to the page you came from HERE